View Full Version : advice needed about floating timber floor; Tassie Oak or Blackbutt??
michanna
28th September 2006, 06:36 PM
My husband and I are currently planning to build a new home and I would like to lay a floating floor in the open plan kitchen/dining/lounge area (around 70m2). A floating floor is more practical for us because we will be laying a slab and because my husband will be able to lay the floor himself (I know that quite a few of you are 'real hardwood flooring' fans, but this is out of the question for us).
I have been quoted on Readyflor Tassie Oak single strip uniclic (around $110m2). I have also had a look at Boral Silkwood in Blackbutt. I know that Blackbutt is much harder than Tassie Oak (which will mark and dent more easily).
My question is should I opt for Tassie Oak (which I will be able to unclick and replace boards if necessary) or go for the Blackbutt (which will be glued together). I have 4 kids; so it will get quite a bit of wear.
This floor will be a sizeable investment, so I appreciate any advice any of you may have.
Shaun04
28th September 2006, 08:14 PM
Definatly the Blackbutt, as you said it wont dent no were near as easy as the Tassy Oak, so i reckon the Blackbutt, secret nailed and it should look sweet.
glock40sw
29th September 2006, 08:24 AM
G'day.
Blackbutt will out last Tassie Oak by a huge margin.
But, Why go for a floater?
Direct stick 12mm solid overlay would be better. You might be surprised at the cost.Where in northern NSW are you?
There are a few very good suppliers and installers up here that could give you some ideas.
michanna
29th September 2006, 09:16 AM
Hi Trevor; we are up here in Glen Innes. We are swaying towards a floating floor at the moment because we can do it ourselves and we like the idea that it is easy to remove at a later stage if need be. We have tiles in our current house and are not happy with the result and they can't be removed without a huge amount of mess and hassel. I am a bit concerned also about maintaining the right humidity levels in our climate, which tends to be on the dry side; would direct stick be more likely to be affected by this? I'm not sure how easy it is to find a contractor to sand and finish the floor locally also.
Thanks for your replies.
glock40sw
29th September 2006, 05:35 PM
There are a few installers/ finishers in grafton that travel to Glenn and Armidale for jobs.
If you use selleys direct stick glue it will work better up your way than Ultraset or Sika T55j.
Selleys doesn't allow board movement like the other adhesives.
12mm Overlay is dried to 8% Moisture content at our plant primarily for markets in WA, but this will also work on the table lands and western slopes and plains.
ausdesign
29th September 2006, 05:47 PM
Trevor do I understand correctly that you vary the moisture content depending upon the market location.
glock40sw
29th September 2006, 07:33 PM
Yes.
Our 19mm T&G is average MC% of 10.5%
Our 12mm Overlay is 8 to 9%
Large orders for specific areas are dried to suit.
EG: Dubbo, Roma, Alice Springs, Wagga Wagga, Moree. etc etc etc
michanna
30th September 2006, 09:01 AM
Thanks Trevor; we are at least 6 months away from needing the timber (just in the process of budgeting). We will consider the direct stick method as well. If we were to purchase T & G flooring, Grafton would be our first consideration; are there any other retailers other than Big River Timbers? I was also looking at the Armourfloor they are retailing, but noticed that there is only 3mm of hardwood on this product, where as most others have 4mm. If I need a finishing contractor I'll be sure to ask you first! Thanks again.