Stain under Lacquer

[mag]

I have just completed a dresser using Spirit stain, glaze and lacquer. I havn't noticed any problems with bleeding as has been discussed on this forum. (although my standards may be lower than others)

I am starting a couple more projects where I want a deep baltic stain, has anyone any experiences with water base stain under lacquer which provides an even stain on pine?

[ozwinner]

, has anyone any experiences with water base stain under lacquer which provides an even stain on pine?

Is such a thing possible?

Pine has such big grain, I doubt if you can get even staining.

Al :)

[echnidna]

I used to use oil based stains under lacquer.
I sealed the oil stain with shellac then lacquered over that.
Don't see why water stains wouldn't work as long as you raise the grain before you stain.

[MacS]

You might want to first try applying a thin wash coat of shellac, and then lightly scuff sand the shellac. This will seal the wood and prevent or reduce the stain from blotching.

Gel stains would be a good choice for pine or other woods that are known to blotch.

Good Luck

[Auld Bassoon]

The only way that I know of to get anything approaching an even stain on pine is by wetting it first with a pretty damp cloth, quick as a flash application of stain, and a good wipe over with another dampish cloth. Even so, any glue marks, curled grain or whatever, and it will look like a rugby pitch just after a match...

[soundman]

there can be problems with some stains under laquer.
When I say laquer I mean laquer and not othe varnishes or poly.
I have had problems with mirotone thinners based stain under the matching laquer.
I think that is because I tended to want a heavier build than most of the commercial guy's want.
I have concluded that many use nitro laquer in a thin and fast application style, in this method it doesn't give much build or seal but these guy's are looking for sheen and colour only.

If you go heavy with this stuff it will re disolve the layer below and pull the stain out of the timber and all sorts of other stuff.

if you want a heavy build using a non solvent compatable stain is probaly the answer.

If your top cote is thinner based use a water or oilbased stain??

or

dont stain.... do your surface preparation with the usual sealer and tone by tinting the top coats.

just some thaughts
cheers

[RETIRED]

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?t=659