Olive oil as a finish?

[little luthier]

Nice forum you guys have here!

Have any of you used or considered using kitchen-standard olive oil as a finish, instead of linseed or Tung?
I gave it a try on a piece of scrap Pacific maple a few days ago - A day's drying time (in the middle of winter) per coat and aesthetically pleasing results - I just don't know how long it will last.

Common sense says linseed or Tung oil will be significantly better - otherwise people wouldn't use them - but I'm a jobless teenager and I spent all my money on tools and guitar junk, and 'economical' alternatives seem quite appealing. For my purposes (electric guitar neck) a slightly higher chance of fungus attack isn't really a problem. So is there anything my young, naive mind is forgetting to consider?

Thanks!

[Cliff Rogers]

I messed around with cooking oils on timber & found that they go mouldy.
Some even go sticky & attract dust.

[Cliff Rogers]

For things that just need a 'slap on cheap' finish I tend to use wax instead of oil.

[mick61]

Olive oil will become rancid no good as a finish.
Mick:D

[Macleod]

I remember some people have used it on chopping boards(or it was vegetable oil, don't know much of a difference lol). But as Cliff said, wax will probably give you a nice shiny finish.

[Cliff Rogers]

This mineral oil may also be worth a try, I haven't used it on anything other than kitchen utensils.
FoodSafe Plus (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/FS+.htm)

[BobL]

Olive oil will become rancid no good as a finish.
Mick:D

Most vegie olls will oxidise and some like canola will polymerise but stay tacky. That is why linseed is "treated" into BLO

[Kev Y.]

I have been successful with grapeseed oil, cheap and available in most supermarkets. I use it regularly on chopping boards and rolling pins.

[little luthier]

Thanks all. I have considered wax and poly' as finishes (poly is what most makers use on guitars) but through experimentation I have found that oils give the least friction. Grapeseed oil sounds good!

Also, I'm thinking that ground coffee beans dissolved into the oil could make for a nice rich stain - will give it a shot soon, but does anyone have any experience to share?

[Avery]

Mineral oil is cheap. Get it from your local pharmacy. J & J baby oil is just mineral oil with enhanced aroma. It won't go rancid and is food safe.

[little luthier]

Thanks, Avery - sounds good!

[dabbler]

Also, I'm thinking that ground coffee beans dissolved into the oil could make for a nice rich stain - will give it a shot soon, but does anyone have any experience to share?

You can't dissolve coffee grinds sorry. They're vegetable matter. They may impart some slight discolouration to the vege oil but only if unused, freshly roasted and freshly ground and then the oil would need to be colourless. Coffee - the beverage - is more or less the extracted natural oils and sugars of coffee beans.

If you're looking for natural dyes, I've seen a few references in threads here but I think you are in for some trial and error.

[Pat]

I'll throw in Macadamia Oil and Camelia oil into the mix. I use Camelia oil on tools as a rust protection, turnings as a food safe finish and the BBQ to cook with.

You can get Camelia oil from a wood working shop for about $18 for 8 oz (236ml) or $24 for a liter from here (http://shop.newdirections.com.au/epages/newdirections.sf/en_AU/?LastViewObjectID=198804&ViewAction=View&ChangeAction=&ShopURL=https%3A%2F%2Fshop.newdirections.com.au%2Fepages%2Fnewdirections.sf%2Fsect7xtWm6qYRQ%2F%3BSessionID%3D23f76367c72ab1ed58896ee752a210d1&Quantity=1&ChangeObjectID=218130&x=11&y=8).

I am in no way connected with the linked company, except for being a happy customer.

[Mr Brush]

Olive oil makes an excellent finish......for fresh crusty bread :D

Pat - there is a big test of rust preventatives in the current Fine Woodworking mag, and sorry to say both Camelia Oil and Jojoba Oil were summarised as "marginal performers". I know they are traditional rust preventatives, but it seems that lots of more modern concoctions work better. :(

Thanks to your suggestion, I'll use up my leftover Camelia Oil on the BBQ, and use G15 on my tools !

[Cliff Rogers]

If you can afford to buy camellia oil, you can afford to buy proper timber finish.

If we are going to change subject to rust prevention... ubeaut's good old trad wax works a treat for that too. :2tsup:
TRADITIONAL WAX (http://www.ubeaut.com.au/trad.html)

$15 for 250ml but I still have the first jar I ever bought so it goes a long way.

[Homeleigh]

Have used olive oil on cutting boards. Worked well in with wet and dr, let dry and then buffed. Haven't had a problem.

[dr4g0nfly]

Over here in the UK Walnut oil is sometimes used for salad bowls etc - but as with all things 'Nuts' you have to display a warning.

[burraboy]

I have heard of (and tried) boiling articles in an olive oil/beeswax mix until there are no more bubbles being emitted. Didn't like the result on the job I had in hand, but there may be opportunities when it can be used as a waterproofing method.

[tea lady]

Save up till next weeks pocket money I reckon. :)

[Horsecroft88]

The other oil I would consider for a job like that is burnishing oils. Organoil is excellent, and from memory wasn't that expensive, and unlike linseed oil, it doesn't stay unduly oily for long but provides decent protection. A little beeswax polish afterwards and you would have a pretty decent finish for your guitar neck. Just my $2 worth.